Fastener mount and method of making the same



Jan. 12, 1937. R. T. ALLIS FASTENER MOUNT AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME .IIlLFIZLzZI. I I 1 V v v ATTO R N EY 4 Sheets-Sheet l 355...5:::ZEZZEEEtKr3 Filed Nov. 14, 1934 Jan. 12, 1937. R. T. ALLIS 2,067,371

FASTENER MOUNT AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Nov. 14, 1934 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR ATTORNEY $3111.12, 1937. R. T. ALLIS 2,067,371

FASTENER MOUNT AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Nov. 14, 1954 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTOR z/z ATTORNEY Jan. 12, 1937. I R L s 2,067,371

FASTENER MOUNT AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Nov. 14, 1934 4 Sheets-$heet 4 AMAA HAIHAAI AllAAllAlAAAlIA/ij Mun MAI "n "I VIIK'V INVENTOR Patented Jan. 12, 1937 PATENT OFFICE FASTENER MOUNT AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Robert T. Allis, Springfield, Mass.

Application November 14, 1934, Serial No. 752,934

12 Claims.

This invention relates to fastener mounts and methods of making the same, and has for its main object and feature the production of a resilient fastener mount as contradistinguished .1 from the rigid and non-resilient fastener mounts heretofore universally employed in corsets and foundation garments.

In the accompanying drawings, the invention is disclosed in a number of concrete and preferred forms in which Fig. 1 is a view in elevation of the front portion of a foundation garment to which the invention can be applied;

Figs. 2, 3 and 4 are more or less diagrammatic views showing the steps of producing a multiplelayer tape with riveted fastener elements and of attaching it to a garment section;

Figs. 5, 6 and 7 show alternative steps in attaching the tape of Fig. 2 to a garment section;

Figs. 8 and 9 show forms of tape that are alternative to that shown in Fig. 3;

Figs. 10 to 14 inclusive are diagrammatic views showing the steps of producing a multiple-layer tape, in which the fastener elements are held in position by stitching, (Fig. 11 being a sectional view on the line I of Fig. 10)- and of attaching it to a garment section;

Figs. 15 and 16 show alternative steps of attaching the tape of Fig. 10 to a garment section;

Figs. 17 to inclusive show a number of alternative forms of single-layer tapes that can be used in place of the multiple-layer tapes of Figs. 2 and 10;

Fig. 26 is an enlarged view, partly broken away and in section, of a part of two adjacent garment sections with the fastener elements and associated parts shown;

Fig. 27 is a sectional view substantially on the plane of line 21-21 of Fig. 26;

Fig. 28 is a. view similar to Fig. 26, but showing a modified form of the invention;

Fig. 29 is a sectional view substantially on the plane of line 2929 of Fig. 28; and

Fig. 30 is a perspective view of a tape ready to be applied to a garment section.

Considering only the basic features of the invention and disregarding for the time being finish and appearance of the garment, attention is first directed to Fig. 1 which shows a foundation garment composed wholly or in part of what is known as a two-way-stretch or two-wayresilient fabric, the numerals 30, 3|, 32 and 33 indicating sections of two-way-resilient fabric. Adjacent one side of the garment is a seam composed of a one-way-resilient tape 34, devoid of fastener elements, secured to sections 33 and 3|, by means of lines of stretchable stitching 35, that is zig-zag stitching that permits the seam to expand or contract in response to the vertical expansion or contraction of sections 33 and 3|. Adjacent the other side of the garment is an opening 36 between sections 32 and 33 and arranged along the opposed edges of said sections are two series of complementary fastener elements here shown as the conventional hooks 31 and eyes 38 by means of which opening 36 can be closed. The fastener mount, whether considered as a section of the garment itself or as a tape, instead of being rigid as heretofore, is provided with flexible but non-resilient fastenersupporting zones that are capable of bodily movement in response to expansion and contraction of sections 32 and 33. These zones, which are indicated at 39, consist here essentially of interrupted fastener-supporting means of flexible but non-resilient material, the members of which means are capable of bodily movement in response to expansion and contraction of said sections 32 and 33 and do not, as heretofore, prevent or seriously impede vertical expansion of said sections 32 and 33, the result being that seam 34 and the elements adjacent opening 36 will expand or contract approximately to the same extent so that the stress and position of the two sides of the garment is substantially uniform. Preferably, the zones or members 39 are secured to sections 32 and 33 by continuous lines of stretchable stitching 4|] that extend over said members as well as between them.

Turning now our attention to the practical methods of creating these zones or methods of applying these members to the sections, but still disregarding finish and appearance of the garment, it is desirable to bear in mind the practice in the art of using fastener-carrying tapes for, although it will be understood that each fastener element could be secured to an individual piece of flexible but non-resilient material and the latter individually attached to the garment, such procedure would be slow and cumbersome and therefore not desirable from a manufacturing point of view.

In Fig. 2, 4| indicates an uninterrupted carrying member, here a flexible and one-way-resilient fabric tape, and 42 is a flexible but nonresilient tape superposed on tape 4|. Fastener elements, as hooks 31, are, in this instance secured in spaced-apart position to both tapes either by sewing or by riveting. The result is .tween adjacent members 39.

a multiple-layer tape including at least two layers arranged face to face one layer of flexible and one-way-resilient fabric and one layer of flexible but non-resilient material and, as will be seen from Fig. 3, the non-resilient tape can now be severed transversely at one or more points 43 intermediate the fastener elements and still present an assembled structure that can be sold" as such to' the corset manufacturer. At 43a shown a double severance to provide a more absolute clearance. The product (Fig. 3) is a multiple-layer tape consisting of an un interrupted layer of flexible and one-way resilient fabric and an interrupted' layer;of;flexe I ible but non-resilient material, together with fastener elements. The severanceeorqinterrup tion may be complete as shown in Fig. 3 or may be partial as shown in Fi'gi 9where-preferably V-shaped cut-away portions 44 may bermade inathe non-resilient material, said cut-away portions not extending all the way across the tape. It will be understood that, under certain conditions, it may not be desirable to interrupt the non-resilient tape. between each two adjacentfastener elements. As shown in Fig. 8, one, two or more fastener elements 3'! may be carried by a single non-resilient member as indicated at 39, 39a and 3912. Also, it will be appreciated, that the non-resilient members may be spaced different distances apart on resilient tape 4! (Fig. 8 and thatin this way acertain amount' of con-trol of the expansion and contraction of the mount can be obtained After the nonresilient tape has been severed or interrupted as indicated in Figs. 3, 8 or 9, the multiplelayer tape can be imposed on a garment section as 33 (Fig. 4) and. secured thereto by stretchable stitching- 49. The product thus obtained is, in this case, a garment section of flexibleand twoway'-resilient fabric to which is secured, by stretchable stitching, a multiplelayer tape including at least one uninterrupted layer of one-way-resilient and flexible fabric and atleast one interrupted layer, having fastener elements, of flexible but non-resilient material. Preferably, tape M is of greater resiliency than the up-and-down resilience of section 33, because those-parts of tape H that are attached to the non-resilient membersare there by rendered practically non-resilient and, inorder to compensate for this, a-relatively high resiliency of tape 4| is desirable at points be- It may be remarked at this point that the terms resilient and non-resilient are not absolute but are merely relative.

By the use of the terms resilient and nonresilient I am referringto material, on the one hand, that is intended and designed to be def-- initely resilient; and, on the other band, to material that is not intended or 'designed to possess resiliency, although there are few fabrics, if indeed any,that do not possessthat qualification even though it be slight.

The. product shown in-Fig. 2 can-also be sold, as such, to thetrade, and'the manufacturer of corsets can then proceed as above outlined, that is: he can sever the non-resilient tape and then apply the multiple-layer tape to the garment in the manner previously described. But themanufacturermay also proceed differently, for he can take the" product of Fig. 2 and apply it, with the non-resilient tape unsevered, to asectiong33 by means of basting stitches 45 (Fig. 5). After this, the non-resilient tape and the basting Qto' specifically as the fastener elements.

stitches can be severed (Fig. 6) and the multiple-layer tape secured to section 33 by stretchable stitching 40 (Fig. 7). Or, if desired, the resilient tape can be omitted altogether and the unsevered non-resilient tape can be applied to the section, then severed and then the members thereof can be secured to said section by stitching or otherwise.

In describing, in detail, the various forms of the invention above set forth in Figs. 2,.to 9, it will be noted that hooks only have been referred It is realized, of course, that hook-carrying tapes are generallyiconstructed differently from eye-carrying tapes, but as the chief difference resides injthe fact that hooks usually project from the edge of the tape,,whereas eyes usually project from the side of the tape it is thought unnecessary: to repeat the description to merely disclose something that is already Well understood in the art.

It is, however, desired to emphasize the fact that the fastener elements need-not be directly secured to both a resilientand a non-resilient tape and also thatsaid fastener" elements need not be attached by riveting or stapling. As a'- matter. of fact, the fastenerelements' need not be secured, in the ordinary sensegeven to the non-resilient tape,they may be merely; held or carried by it. In Figs. 10*and- 11 is showna non-resilient tape'of well-known construction which consists of several folds or-layers of-nonresilient material 56 arranged face to facej the' fastener elements 41 projecting through openings 48 and a line of skip-stitching 49 being provided that does not necessarily pass through-anyopening in thefastener element but merely forms pockets 'in-themateria-l that embrace-the shank of the fastener-element and hold itinposition. Such a tape (46) caribe-securedlFig. 12) to a resilient-fabrictape' 56 by-means of stitching 5!, after which the non-resilient tape (Fig. 13) and stitching 5| can be severed transversely as at 52 and the multiple-layer; tape-be secured to section 33 (Fig. 14 by means of stretchable stitching 40. Or, (Fig. 15) the product shown in Figs. 10 or 12 can be applied-- to section 33 by temporary stitching 53, after which (Fig; 16) the non-resilient tape can-be severed as at 54 and the tape (excluding 0I"-lI1- cluding the resilient fabric tape) secured to section 33 as by stretchable stitching Ml;-

In Fig. 17 is shown a strip offlexibleand-re silient fabric 55 having alternate resilient and non-resilient zones, the non-resilient zones being indicated at- 56 and being hereproducediby" transverse stitching as shown. Fastener elements 5? are attached to: the strip-in the-ma resilient zones; In. Fig. 18 is shown a strip of flexible fabric 58 in which alternate resilient and non-resilient zones 59,and 69" are produced by weaving. In this figure, 6| represents-elastic" warp threads and fi2-flller threads. Itwill be noted that the filler threads are, in the resilient 1' portion of the strip, far enough apart to permit the elastic warp threads tofunctio-n in the usual manner, but that, in the non-resilient portions, the filler threads are so closely packed as to render this part of the strip'inelastic. Fastener elements 63 are attached to the non-resilient portions. In Fig. 19, alternate strips 64*;and 6.5 of non-resilient and resilient material are.arranged endto endandsecuredgtogether. as,by, stitching 5.6. Fastener elements. 6? are. carried by the non-resilientportions.

, From the foregoing it will be seen that, analyzing the invention from a broad point of view, one aspect of it resides in rendering the resilient warp threads of the resilient tape nonzones.

effective in certain zones without destroying the resiliency of the tap as an entity, and in mounting fastener elements in the non-resilient zones. This is true not only of the arrangement shown .in Figs. 17 and 18 but also of the other forms point of View it makes no difference whether the 20 mount is a single layer or a multi-layer tape.

In Figs. 20, 21, and 22 is shown another meth- 0d of mounting fastener elements on a single layer fabric tape. Tape 68 is here of resilient material, that is it hasresilient warp threads.

As indicated in Fig. 20, the tape is stretched lengthwise substantially to the limit of its elasticity and, while so stretched, fastener elements 69 are riveted in position. The tape is then released and allowed to contract (Fig. 22), but

that part of the material that lies between front face I8 and rear face H of the rivets does not contract but remains extended and therefore constitutes a non-resilient zone or spot capable .of bodily movement in response to expansion and contraction of the tape as a whole.

I In Fig. 23 certain of the resilient warp threads 12 are exposed in zones I3, that is they are separated from the cotton threads usually associated with them. Fastener elements i i are then riveted to the remainder of the tape. The stapling or riveting machine has a tendency to push the resilient threads aside so that the riveting takes effect only in the cotton threads that lie back of the exposed resilient threads,

but even if a few of the latter are caught by the rivets, it is of no moment.

Fig. 24 shows a construction in which zones 15 extend all the way across the tape instead of part-way as in Fig. 23. Therefore more resilient threads I6 are exposed, and fastener elements TI are secured to the cotton threads lying back of the exposed resilient threads.

In Fig. 25 the resilient tape I8 has a longitudinally extending zone I9 composed of relatively heavy cotton threads and this zone can be devoid of resilient threads. In this zone, fastener elements 88 are secured.

It will be understood that the tapes shown in Figs. 17 to 25 are intended to be attached to a garment section by means of stretchable stitching and it is believed to be unnecessary to repeat a detail description of this.

Turning now to the details of a garment having the requisite finish and appearance desirable in the trade, it will be sufficient to refer to a few examples as obviously a complete cataloguing of all possible forms of utilizing the invention would render the disclosure too cumbersome.

In Figs. 26 and 27, the two adjacent garment sections of two-way-resilient material are indicated by 8| and 82. Hooks 83 are held by a multi-layer flexible but non-resilient strip 84 analogous to that shown in Figs. 10 and 11, and this strip is severed transversely as at 85. A binding strip 86 of flexible and. resilient material embraces the edge of garment section 8| and also the nonresilient strip 84, hooks 83 protruding through binding strip 86. A line of stretchable stitching 81 preferably unites resilient binding strip 86, garment section 8| and the non-resilient strip 84, and a second line of stretchable stiching 88 preferably unites only resilient bindin strip 86 and non-resilient strip 84. Garment section 82 is preferably folded back on itself as at 89, eyes 90 are in this case riveted to a flexiblebut non-resilient multi-layer strip 9| severed transversely at 92, and said non-resilient strip is surrounded by a flexible and resilient strip 93, through the side of which eyes 90 protrude. A line of stretchable stitching 95 preferably unites garment section 82, resilient strip 93 and non-resilient strip 9|, and a second. line of stretchable stitching 95 preferably unites garment section 82 and resilient strip 93.

In Figs. 28 and 29, the two garment sections of two-way-resilient material are indicated at 96 and 91. Hooks 98 are here riveted to a strip of non-resilient material 99 doubled back upon itself which material is severed transversely as at I00. A flexible and resilient fabric strip IOI is bent back upon itself as at I82 and surrounds edge I03 of the non-resilient strip 99, hooks 98 protruding through said resilient strip. This tape or assembly of strips is imposed upon garment section 96 and is secured to same by two lines of stretchable stitching I04 and I05. Eyes I86 are riveted to a multi-layer non-resilient strip IU'I severed transversely at I 08, and strip I0! lies within a folded flexible and resilient strip I09 through the side of which eyes I06 protrude. A line of stretchable stitching I I 0 unites the resilient and non-resilient strips, and two lines of stretchable stitching III and H2 unite garment section 9'! and the resilient strip.

In Fig. is shown a perspective view of a finished form of tape composed both of resilient and non-resilient strips and ready to be applied to a garment section. This tape is analogous to the one shown attached to garment section 8| in Figs. 26 and 27. As shown in Fig. 30, the outer covering is a strip of flexible and resilient fabric I I3 folded back upon itself. I I4 is a flexible but non-resilient strip also folded back upon itself and supporting fastener elements H5 in .any way suitable, said fastener elements protruding through resilient fabric H3. The two strips I I3 and I Hi can be tacked or stitched together as at H6 and when the assembly is opened up for the purpose of introducing the edge of a garment section, as 8|, the non-resilient strip H4 can be severed transversely as at II 1 between the fastener elements, after which, the garment having been received within the assembly and the assembly closed, stretchable stitching is applied in any way suitable to unite the parts.

Whenever the words resilient strip or words of like import have been used herein it is intended to indicate lengthwise resilient.

This application is a continuation in part of one filed July 27, 1934 Ser. No. 737,308.

I claim:

1. A garment having, adjacent an opening therein, opposed sections of flexible fabric resilient in a direction lengthwise of the opening, each of said sections having one or more nonresilient zones that move bodily lengthwise of the opening in response to expansion and contraction of the fabric of the section, and two series of complementary fastener elements, one series on one and the other on the other side of said; opening! located in said non-resilient zones with the elements of-each series arranged sequentially lengthwise of theopening.

2; As a new article ofmanufacture: a garment 5? section of flexible fabric resilient in more than one direction and provided with a plurality-of non-resilient fastener-supporting; zones arranged sequentially in one of the directions of its re-- siliency and bodily movable in response to expansion and contraction of the fabric in the one l5. layer of resilient and flexible fabric and one interrupted layer of flexible but non-resilient.

material; and fastener, elements securing the layers of material together at points intermediate the interruptions inthe non-resilient materiaL.

4. The-combination with a garment section'of' flexible and resilient fabric, of interrupted fastener-supporting'means of flexible but non-resilient material imposed on said section, andmeansto connect the members of said supporting means to admit of bodily movement of said members in response to expansion and. contraction of the fabric of saidsection.

5. The combination with a garment section 301 of flexible and resilient fabric, of interruptedfastener-supporting means of flexible but non.- resilient material imposed on said section, and stretchable stitching that passes both. through the fabric of the'section and through the members, of saidsupporting means and also through the fabric of the section intermediate the: members, to thereby admit of bodily movement of the members of said supporting means in response to expansion and contraction of the 40 fabric of said section. V

6. The combination with a garment section of; flexible and resilient fabric, of a multiple-layer tape including at least'two layers arranged face to face, one uninterrupted layer of resilient and flexible fabric'and one interrupted layer, having fastener elements, of flexible but non-resilient material, and means to secure the multiplelayer tape to the section.

7. The combination with a' garment section of flexible and resilient fabric, 0f. a..multiplelayer tape including. at leastone-uninterrupted layer of' resilient and: flexible fabrio and. at leaste one interrupted-layer, having fastener elements, of flexible but nonresilient material, and.

stretchable stitching to securev the multiple-.

layer tape to the section. 1 8. The combination with agarment section-of flexible and-resilient fabric, of a multiple-layer. tape including at least one uninterrupted layer of resilient and flexible fabric that is more ressilient than the fabric of the.-section,..and atleast one interrupted layer, having fastener. ele-- ments, of flexible but non-resilient material, said layers arranged face to face and meansto secure the multiple-layer tape to the section.

9. The combination with a garment section. of flexible and resilient fabric, of a multiple.-v layer tape including at leastlone uninterrupted. layer of resilient and flexible fabric that ismore resilient than the fabric of the section, and at least one interruptedlayer, having. fastener elements, of flexible but non-resilient material, and stretchable stitching to secure the multiplelayer tape to the section.

10. A fastener-carrying tape consisting. of. a strip of flexible and resilient fabric, stitching. that renders certain zones of the-strip non-resilient, said zones extending beyond the fastener. elements, and fastener elements carried by the tape in the non-resilientzones.

11. The method of producing a fastener. mount which consists in rendering theresilient warp threads of a resilient tape non-effective in certain zoneswithout destroying the resiliency of the tape as an entity by exposing the resilient warp threads at intervals in said tape, and. mounting fastener elements tothe tape at the points where the resilient warp threads are exposed.

12. Themethod of mounting. fastener elements on a'tapeof resilient fabric which consists in stretching said fabric-substantially to its limit of resiliency and riveting fastener elements to said fabric while so stretched to thereby create non-resilient zones beneath.- the riveting of the fastener elements.

ROBERT T. ALLIS. 

